
Style Companion
Bagged and Tagged: Inside CHANEL’s Fight to Control Resale
by Thea Elle | September 1, 2025 | Style Guide
You finally scored it. The holy grail. A vintage CHANEL 2.55 from The RealReal, complete with soft lambskin, iconic quilting, and just the right amount of smug satisfaction. But as you’re admiring your sustainable fashion win, a chill runs down your spine. It smells like court filings and cease-and-desist letters.
Welcome to the glamorous yet aggressive world of intellectual property, where CHANEL is taking on The RealReal in a legal battle over who gets to resell, authenticate, and even describe their bags. If you thought the resale market was a guilt-free fashion playground, CHANEL might disagree.
In one corner is a legendary fashion house with a trademark on practically everything but your feelings. In the other, a resale platform promising luxury with less guilt and more savings. Somewhere in between is you, wondering if your pre-loved bag might come with pre-packaged legal drama.

CHANEL’s Trademark Obsession Is Not Just a Phase
Owning a CHANEL bag might feel like you’ve made it, but CHANEL wants you to know one thing: owning the bag does not mean you own the brand. From its iconic double C logo to seemingly random numbers like 2.55 and 5, CHANEL has trademarked nearly everything it touches. This isn’t accidental. It’s a deliberate strategy to keep full control over how the brand is used, referenced, and most importantly, resold.
CHANEL has built a legal fortress around its image. Its trademarks aren’t just about logos. They include specific design features, numerical identifiers, packaging elements, and even the vibe of the brand itself. The company has spent decades aggressively filing and defending intellectual property claims worldwide, treating IP like haute couture: precious, protected, and absolutely not to be shared without permission.
The RealReal Thought It Was Saving the Planet, Not Getting Sued
The RealReal built its empire on luxury with a conscience. The pitch was simple: authenticated designer goods at a discount, all in the name of sustainability. Who wouldn’t want to save the planet while scoring a pre-loved CHANEL bag and still have money left for a matcha latte? With bold promises like “100 percent authentic,” The RealReal positioned itself as the gold standard of secondhand shopping.
CHANEL, however, was not impressed. In 2018, the fashion house sued The RealReal for selling counterfeit CHANEL bags, falsely advertising an affiliation with the brand, and claiming it could authenticate CHANEL products. According to CHANEL, only the brand itself has the authority to determine whether a CHANEL bag is real. The RealReal’s team of so-called experts? Not enough. In CHANEL’s eyes, authentication without their blessing is just resale blasphemy.

The Courtroom is the New Runway
While most of us were busy figuring out how to pronounce “Goyard,” CHANEL and The RealReal were battling it out in federal court. The lawsuit has been dragging on since 2018, turning into fashion’s most drawn-out breakup. Think less “amicable uncoupling” and more “custody fight over quilted leather.”
So far, the judge has allowed some of CHANEL’s key claims to move forward. These include accusations of trademark counterfeiting and false advertising. The RealReal argued it was just reselling authentic items, which is legal under the first-sale doctrine. CHANEL argued that seven of those bags were fake and that The RealReal made it seem like there was a special relationship between the two brands. Spoiler alert: there isn’t.
As of now, the case still hasn’t gone to trial. Both sides have been urged to settle, but neither seems ready to back down. In the meantime, every resale platform is watching closely, wondering if they’re next on CHANEL’s legal runway.

Caught in the Middle with Your CHANEL Bag
So where does this leave you, the innocent fashion lover who just wanted a deal on a flap bag without refinancing your apartment? Somewhere between a courtroom chess match and a very expensive game of who owns luxury.
If you buy CHANEL on The RealReal, you are protected under the first-sale doctrine. This means you have the legal right to resell a genuine item you own. But CHANEL’s lawsuits are not just about ownership. They are about presentation. If a reseller even hints at being affiliated with CHANEL or splashes the logo across their marketing like a co-branded event, CHANEL is quick to object.
For buyers, this means that shopping secondhand now requires more than a good eye for caviar leather. You need to trust the platform’s authentication process, steer clear of unauthorized sellers, and stay aware of which platforms are on CHANEL’s radar. In other words, your resale shopping habit might now require fashion sense and legal literacy.

The Future of Resale is Digital, Verified, and Probably Still Very French
CHANEL may not be a fan of resale today, but it is not blind to the fact that the secondhand market is booming. Rather than embrace the chaos, CHANEL is investing in ways to control the narrative. Think digital product passports, advanced serial number systems, and possibly blockchain-based authentication. In the near future, every CHANEL bag might come with a digital birth certificate that follows it from boutique to brunch to resale.
This tech-forward approach allows CHANEL to fight counterfeits more efficiently while maintaining its grip on brand identity. It also opens the door for “official” resale, where CHANEL could authorize platforms or even launch its own. Of course, that would mean CHANEL setting the rules and, more importantly, the prices. Your budget-friendly RealReal habits may need to evolve into something a little more… curated.
Luxury resale is growing fast, and platforms are responding with better tech, smarter authentication, and cleaner reputations. But if CHANEL has its way, the only real future for your secondhand bag will be one where the brand remains in charge — even if it is your bag, in your closet, paid for with your actual money.

CHANEL vs. resale: a modern tug-of-war over who really owns “luxury.”
So, Is Your Bag Just a Bag?
Here is the truth. You might own the CHANEL bag, but CHANEL still owns the idea of it, the identity of it, and quite possibly your listing if you ever try to resell it. The legal clash between CHANEL and The RealReal is not just about handbags. It is about control, exclusivity, and who gets to decide what counts as authentic in the luxury fashion universe.
Whether you shop resale for sustainability, savings, or because retail prices feel like a personal attack, the landscape is shifting. Luxury brands are no longer ignoring the resale market. They are circling it, studying it, and preparing to dominate it on their terms. Your beloved bag may still be yours, but the rules around it are no longer simple.
So carry that bag with pride. Enjoy it, photograph it, resell it if you must. Just know that CHANEL might be watching, and it always has a lawyer on speed dial.