Luxury, Lies, and the Leather Line I Couldn’t Launch
Style Companion
Luxury, Lies, and the Leather Line I Couldn’t Launch
by Thea Elle | May 5, 2025 | Luxury Industrial Complex
I tried to do what TANNER LEATHERSTEIN suggested, and I failed in spectacular, slow-motion fashion. If you’ve ever seen his videos, you know the thrill. Watching him calmly dissect a GUCCI tote like a seasoned surgeon is equal parts satisfying and unsettling. He pulls back the curtain on the illusion we call “luxury,” exposing cheap linings, plastic components, and construction that looks suspiciously like fast fashion in couture drag. He’s not just pulling threads; he’s unraveling the story the industry desperately wants to keep stitched together.
One of his clips hit me like a branding iron. Speaking to the counterfeiters and ghost factories of the world, he said, “Don’t waste that talent making knockoffs. Tell your own stories.” It wasn’t just a mic-drop moment. It was a challenge. I couldn’t stop thinking about it. What if someone actually tried? What if you took that skill, that artistry, and turned it into something original, honest, and desirable—something that didn’t rely on a borrowed logo or a fake French name?
So I did what any ambitious, mildly delusional creative would do. I booked a flight to China with sketches in my bag and fire in my chest. I wanted to build a brand that stood for something real. No shortcuts, no lies. Just leather, vision, and a story worth telling. And I did build it. Or tried to. But what I found was that the system isn’t broken. It’s just not built for stories like mine.
The Tanner Leatherstein Vision
TANNER LEATHERSTEIN isn’t just cutting up expensive handbags. He’s dissecting the very concept of luxury. His message is blunt but refreshing: if you’re paying thousands of dollars for a designer bag, you should be getting thousands of dollars’ worth of craftsmanship. Instead, you’re often getting low-grade leather and mass production disguised under a logo and a carefully curated Instagram campaign. He’s not just exposing poor construction; he’s exposing the absurdity of the luxury narrative.
More importantly, he champions the invisible hands behind the goods. The artisans in China, Turkey, and Vietnam who possess extraordinary skills but receive none of the credit. His dream is clear and radical: imagine a world where those makers aren’t relegated to replicating other people’s designs, but instead telling their own stories. Imagine luxury without the illusion, just quality and originality, proudly made by people whose names are never printed on care tags.
That was the vision I bought into, completely and unapologetically. I wanted to make something beautiful and true. I believed that if I brought craftsmanship to the forefront, if I rejected the false promises of fashion marketing, people would listen. But when I tried to follow that path, I realized that honesty isn’t the currency the industry trades in.
What Happened When I Tried
On the ground in China, the talent was undeniable. The workshops were efficient, the machines were humming, and the leather was among the best I’d ever seen. I met craftspeople who could replicate a DIOR saddlebag in under a day, and I believed, perhaps naively, that they would welcome the chance to create something original. I came in with blueprints for a bag that wasn’t trying to be anyone else’s. I wanted clean lines, perfect stitching, and a story rooted in transparency.
Instead, I was met with polite confusion and hesitant smiles. Most factories suggested I start with existing designs. Some handed me lookbooks filled with silhouettes from CELINE, BALENCIAGA, and SAINT LAURENT.
The Luxury Industrial Complex
Luxury, as it turns out, is not just a product category. It’s an empire with gatekeepers, velvet ropes, and an unshakable hierarchy. A few massive players sit at the top: LVMH, KERING, RICHEMONT, and PRADA. These are not fashion companies. They are cultural monopolies. They control the media narratives, the celebrity endorsements, the editorial spreads, and even the museum exhibits. They don’t just sell products. They sell permission to dream.
Trying to launch an independent luxury brand today is like bringing a hand-sewn slingshot to a ballistic missile contest. These conglomerates have reduced the idea of luxury to a tight, controlled ecosystem. Even when a new brand breaks through, it rarely stays independent for long. If it gains traction, it gets bought. If it resists, it gets buried. The message is simple: you can be creative, but only within the borders they draw.
What we carry isn’t the product. It’s the story it tells about us.
What We’re Really Buying
The most expensive thing in a luxury handbag isn’t the leather. It’s the story. Roland Barthes was right. A bag is not a utility object. It is a sign. A signal. A status flag flapping on your arm, broadcasting aspiration, success, and cultural fluency. When you buy a $3,000 purse, you’re not purchasing storage for your phone and lipstick. You’re buying belonging. You’re buying into a mythology that promises you a seat at the table, or at least in the front row of Fashion Week.
What Craft Alone Can’t Fix
In the end, I had everything I needed to make a world-class product. But what I didn’t have was access. I didn’t have the runway invites, the influencer network, the media machine, or the cultural authority to declare my product “luxury.” The irony is brutal. China has the hands, the hides, and the hardware to make anything. But it doesn’t have the right to tell the story.
Where Do We Go From Here?
Can small creators break through without being absorbed or erased? The honest answer is maybe, but not without more than just skill. It takes capital, yes, but it also takes connections, media backing, and the ability to create a cultural moment. And those are luxuries few independent makers can afford.
TANNER LEATHERSTEIN’s vision still matters. Build, don’t fake. Make things that are true. But the system that governs luxury is built on fiction, and it rewards those who tell the most seductive lies. Until that changes, many of us will keep crafting in the shadows, making beautiful things no one ever sees.
